In 2015, we made the difficult decision to sell our goat herd. The information below was compiled from our own experiences while proudly raising our goats, but the information will not be updated until we are able to add goats back to our farm sometime in unknown future. We are still available however for consultations and hoof trimming, so please feel free to contact us with any questions you may have.
Disclaimer:
None of the information contained on this site is intended to diagnose, treat, or otherwise substitute for the care and advice from a qualified human or animal medical professional. Please consult the trusted medical professional of your choice before using any of the information contained on this site.
None of the information contained on this site is intended to diagnose, treat, or otherwise substitute for the care and advice from a qualified human or animal medical professional. Please consult the trusted medical professional of your choice before using any of the information contained on this site.
Downloads
We are now going to make some of our printed materials available to you to for instant download!
All files will be in PDF format. If you do not have a PDF reader on your computer already, you can download one for free here
All files will be in PDF format. If you do not have a PDF reader on your computer already, you can download one for free here
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Individual Goat Record
We like to keep good records on our goats - it helps to remember which medications have been given and to document health problems or injuries, etc. The Individual Goat Record is a form Nicole created to help keep track of this information in an easy to read format.
We like to keep good records on our goats - it helps to remember which medications have been given and to document health problems or injuries, etc. The Individual Goat Record is a form Nicole created to help keep track of this information in an easy to read format.
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Individual Goat Record (Print Only) - $0.99
Choose this version if you prefer to print the document and simply write on it with a pen.  |
Individual Goat Record (Type and Print) - $0.99
Choose this version if you prefer to type your records to keep on your computer. This version can also be printed. |
Goat Milk
We keep a small herd of goats, to help provide food for our family. The does are milked by hand daily and the milk is used for many purposes. We drink it raw, make cheese, butter, milk kefir, and use it for numerous other purposes (including soap!). Goat milk is highly nutritious and is easily digestible. Dairy proteins (such as whey and casein) are usually species specific. This means that someone who is allergic to the protein in cow's milk may be able to consume goat milk products without difficulty. Goat milk contains less lactose than cow milk, making it much easier for those suffering from lactose intolerance to digest. Additionally, the fat particles in goat milk are smaller than those in cow milk. The result is that goat milk is naturally homogenized. Many people who cannot consume dairy products made from cow milk are able to tolerate goat milk dairy products with ease.
But doesn't it taste funny? Actually, no! If you place a glass of cow milk beside a glass of goat milk, the first thing you will notice is color. Goat milk is white, whereas cow milk is off-white or even a pale shade of yellow. When you compare the taste of the two, you probably will not be able to accurately state which glass is cow milk and which is goat milk. If you do notice a difference, the goat milk will be ever-so-slightly sweeter. The majority of the world's milk drinkers consume goat milk. If you are ever given the opportunity to taste it yourself*, you will understand why we prefer it as well.
*TN State Law does not allow the direct sale of raw milk for human consumption. If you wish to consume raw milk, you have three options. First, consuming milk from your own animals is not illegal, which means if you own goats or cows, you may freely consume the milk from those animals. Second, if you do not own goats or cows, you can find someone who sells goat or cow shares - this means that you purchase a "share" or part-ownership of a dairy animal and then pay a small fee to help cover the monthly upkeep for that animal. Since this makes you part-owner of the animal, you will then be able to legally obtain milk and/or other dairy products from that animal for your own consumption. Your third and final option is to purchase milk that has been labeled "For Pet Use Only - Not For Human Consumption." At Wildflower Valley Farm, we do not offer milk shares, but occasionally we have enough milk to be able to share some that is labeled this way.
But doesn't it taste funny? Actually, no! If you place a glass of cow milk beside a glass of goat milk, the first thing you will notice is color. Goat milk is white, whereas cow milk is off-white or even a pale shade of yellow. When you compare the taste of the two, you probably will not be able to accurately state which glass is cow milk and which is goat milk. If you do notice a difference, the goat milk will be ever-so-slightly sweeter. The majority of the world's milk drinkers consume goat milk. If you are ever given the opportunity to taste it yourself*, you will understand why we prefer it as well.
*TN State Law does not allow the direct sale of raw milk for human consumption. If you wish to consume raw milk, you have three options. First, consuming milk from your own animals is not illegal, which means if you own goats or cows, you may freely consume the milk from those animals. Second, if you do not own goats or cows, you can find someone who sells goat or cow shares - this means that you purchase a "share" or part-ownership of a dairy animal and then pay a small fee to help cover the monthly upkeep for that animal. Since this makes you part-owner of the animal, you will then be able to legally obtain milk and/or other dairy products from that animal for your own consumption. Your third and final option is to purchase milk that has been labeled "For Pet Use Only - Not For Human Consumption." At Wildflower Valley Farm, we do not offer milk shares, but occasionally we have enough milk to be able to share some that is labeled this way.
General Care
Goats are herd animals. A single goat will be a lonely goat, and lonely goats are never happy. Unhappy goats suffer from stress related issues, including behavior problems and poor health. When you decide to have goats, decide to get two. You can keep two does, two wethers, or one of each. Unless you have several does and plan to breed them each year, a buck will be more trouble than benefit to you.
When it comes to caring for goats, the basics are pretty easy. However, if you ask three goat owners how to best provide care, you will get four different answers (yes I said four, that is not a typo!). In general, there are a few standard practices and how you implement them will be based on your (and your goats') specific needs. Goats need adequate shelter, free access to fresh, clean water, quality forage, goat-safe fencing, preventative care, and protection from predators.
When it comes to caring for goats, the basics are pretty easy. However, if you ask three goat owners how to best provide care, you will get four different answers (yes I said four, that is not a typo!). In general, there are a few standard practices and how you implement them will be based on your (and your goats') specific needs. Goats need adequate shelter, free access to fresh, clean water, quality forage, goat-safe fencing, preventative care, and protection from predators.
- Shelter - any structurally sound shelter that provides protection from the elements is sufficient. Your local climate will dictate what is necessary for "protection from the elements" but essentially, your goats should be able to stay dry when it's raining, and be protected from extreme heat and cold.
- Water - must be available at all times, and must be clean. Many goats will refuse to drink from buckets with hay, dirt, or feces floating in them. They will require a lot more water during hot weather, and if water freezes during winter in your climate, plan on breaking the ice for your goats frequently throughout the day. Water sources should be checked frequently enough to ensure that they are never empty, and always clean.
- Forage - quality pasture and browse are the best choice, along with supplemental high quality grass hay when necessary. Most goats prefer weeds, fresh leaves, and tender tree and shrub branches over grass. It is not unheard of for goats standing in knee-high grass to lose condition due to lack of their preferred weeds. When hay is provided, it should be free of mold and excess dust. Contrary to popular myth, goats do not eat just any old thing, and will do poorly on poor quality forage.
- Fencing - any style of fencing that will contain them will suffice. Containing goats can be tricky however. Fences should be a minimum of 4 feet tall. Spacing between wire or boards should be less than 6 inches for large goats and 4 inches for small goats and kids. If you use electric wire, it must be on at all times because the goats will test it frequently, and escape every time the fence is turned off. If there are any structures (buildings, cars, tree stumps, etc.) inside the fence, expect your goats to climb on them. If they can climb on such structures and leap over the fence, they will.
- Preventative Care - includes deworming, hoof trimming, supplements, and other preventative medicine. The specific needs for your goats will depend on your climate and possibly even the region within your climate. Deworming should be done as needed, rather than on an arbitrary schedule. Goats metabolize medications so quickly that they require high doses. Excessive dosing of deworming medications, whether chemical or herbal, will result in parasitic resistance. Once the parasites build a resistance to the medication you use, it will become ineffective, and finding an alternative can be extremely difficult. Vaccine and supplement needs will vary from one location to the next. Consult trusted breeders and medical professionals in your area for recommendations. Hooves should be checked weekly and trimmed as needed. Treat all illnesses immediately for the best chance of full recovery. Many goats do not display signs of illness until the illness is far progressed, and any treatment provided must be done both in a timely manner, and for the recommended length of time in order to be effective.
- Protection from Predators - whether horned or not, goats are prey animals. Both wild predators and domestic predators (such as dogs) must be protected against. Depending on your situation, it may be possible to fence the predators out, but the best defense is a Livestock Guardian Dog or LGD. Obtain your LGD from a trusted breeder, who raises the puppies with the animals they are supposed to protect. Your LGD is your employee, rather than your pet. That is not to say that you cannot show affection to your LGD, but if he/she is allowed to play with your family, live in the house or yard, and given the same privileges that your pet dogs receive, he/she will be a pet rather than a quality guardian for your goats. Treat your LGD with respect and kindness and provide him/her with proper food and care, but let him/her do his job. A properly trained LGD will protect your goats from other dogs, coyotes, and other common predators.
A note about deworming...
***READ THESE DEWORMING UPDATES FIRST - HERE AND HERE ***
Deworming on a specific schedule seems to be counterproductive. Deworming too often leads to parasites that develop resistance to the medications most commonly used. Goats have such a high metabolism that the medication doses required to be effective are also much higher than the doses used in other livestock. To prevent drug resistance in the parasites, it is best to only deworm when the goat actually needs to be dewormed, and to use the correct medication for the targeted parasite. The #1 best way to determine when a goat should be dewormed and which drug to use, is to monitor fecal egg counts. If you are trained in fecal testing, you can do this at home with a decent microscope. Otherwise, you can collect a sample and ask your veterinarian to do a fecal egg count, and recommend the correct medication and dosage for the specific parasite you are dealing with.
In our part of the country, the Barber Pole worm is highly common and causes severe anemia and death if left untreated. We use the FAMACHA test to determine if a goat has symptoms of anemia, and then deworm accordingly. We also periodically have our vet do a fecal exam to determine the effectiveness of the dewormers that we use. If the goat's eye membranes are pale, we typically deworm with a combination of moxidectin** (we us Quest gel horse dewormer) and pyrantel pamoate (we use either Strongid or Exodus). This combination treats gastrointestinal worms, lung worms, and most external parasites as well. We also use Valbazen when recommended by our large animal vet. The effectiveness of Fenbendazole is questioned by many goat breeders and vets alike in our area, therefore its use is limited.
We dose moxidectin gel at 2x the weight of the goat. So, if a goat weighs 100lbs, we use the 200lb mark on the tube. Some goat breeders recommend emptying the moxidectin out of the tube and mixing well, then dosing at 1cc per 100lbs. When our vet recommended that we try moxidectin, she did not suggest mixing the medication so we do not - we administer directly from the tube as indicated above.
We dose pyrantel pamoate paste at 3x the weight of the goat. So, if a goat weighs 100lbs, we use the 300lb mark on the tube.
In the case of a severely anemic goat (white membranes), we would deworm with the pyrantel pamoate alone, as it is a milder dewormer. In 7-10 days we would recheck the goat's eye membranes. As long as there has been some improvement, we would then administer the pyrantel pamoate again, along with the moxidectin. If the recheck showed no improvement or a further decline, we would immediately consult our veterinarian who would likely recommend a prescription dewormer.
**Moxidectin (Cydectin, Quest, Quest Plus, etc.) should not be given to pregnant does.
A note about ivermectin: While many goat breeders find ivermectin to be useful against tapeworms, lung worms, and some other types of worms, its effectiveness in the East Tennessee region is debated by many. We do use it occasionally, however only in the adult goats. There is some speculation that ivermectin can cross the blood-brain barrier in goats younger than 6 months old. Out of caution, we choose to only use it in goats 7 months or older. When we do use ivermectin, the dose we give (as recommended by the University of Tennessee Veterinary Teaching Hospital) is 3x the horse dose. So, if a goat weighs 100lbs, use the 300lb mark on the tube.
Note: As of 2011, the only over-the-counter dewormer labeled for use in goats was fenbendazole (Panacur, Safe Guard, etc.). In East Tennessee, the effectiveness of this drug has been severely questioned, even at doses much larger than what is recommended by the manufacturer. While this may still be effective in other parts of the country, we have found its use to be questionable in our area and exclusive use of it potentially life threatening for the goat (due to parasite immunity). In fact, we used fenbendazole as recommended for a young buckling we had in 2009. The goat became increasingly ill and anemic so we took him to the University of Tennessee Large Animal Hospital. Despite a blood transfusion and the excellent care provided by the vets there, the buckling died. It was at that time that the vet who treated him recommended that I discontinue use of fenbendazole with my goats and use the pyrantel pamoate instead. My small animal vet, who also raises goats herself, recommended using the moxidectin and pyrantel pamoate together, as described above.
In our part of the country, the Barber Pole worm is highly common and causes severe anemia and death if left untreated. We use the FAMACHA test to determine if a goat has symptoms of anemia, and then deworm accordingly. We also periodically have our vet do a fecal exam to determine the effectiveness of the dewormers that we use. If the goat's eye membranes are pale, we typically deworm with a combination of moxidectin** (we us Quest gel horse dewormer) and pyrantel pamoate (we use either Strongid or Exodus). This combination treats gastrointestinal worms, lung worms, and most external parasites as well. We also use Valbazen when recommended by our large animal vet. The effectiveness of Fenbendazole is questioned by many goat breeders and vets alike in our area, therefore its use is limited.
We dose moxidectin gel at 2x the weight of the goat. So, if a goat weighs 100lbs, we use the 200lb mark on the tube. Some goat breeders recommend emptying the moxidectin out of the tube and mixing well, then dosing at 1cc per 100lbs. When our vet recommended that we try moxidectin, she did not suggest mixing the medication so we do not - we administer directly from the tube as indicated above.
We dose pyrantel pamoate paste at 3x the weight of the goat. So, if a goat weighs 100lbs, we use the 300lb mark on the tube.
In the case of a severely anemic goat (white membranes), we would deworm with the pyrantel pamoate alone, as it is a milder dewormer. In 7-10 days we would recheck the goat's eye membranes. As long as there has been some improvement, we would then administer the pyrantel pamoate again, along with the moxidectin. If the recheck showed no improvement or a further decline, we would immediately consult our veterinarian who would likely recommend a prescription dewormer.
**Moxidectin (Cydectin, Quest, Quest Plus, etc.) should not be given to pregnant does.
A note about ivermectin: While many goat breeders find ivermectin to be useful against tapeworms, lung worms, and some other types of worms, its effectiveness in the East Tennessee region is debated by many. We do use it occasionally, however only in the adult goats. There is some speculation that ivermectin can cross the blood-brain barrier in goats younger than 6 months old. Out of caution, we choose to only use it in goats 7 months or older. When we do use ivermectin, the dose we give (as recommended by the University of Tennessee Veterinary Teaching Hospital) is 3x the horse dose. So, if a goat weighs 100lbs, use the 300lb mark on the tube.
Note: As of 2011, the only over-the-counter dewormer labeled for use in goats was fenbendazole (Panacur, Safe Guard, etc.). In East Tennessee, the effectiveness of this drug has been severely questioned, even at doses much larger than what is recommended by the manufacturer. While this may still be effective in other parts of the country, we have found its use to be questionable in our area and exclusive use of it potentially life threatening for the goat (due to parasite immunity). In fact, we used fenbendazole as recommended for a young buckling we had in 2009. The goat became increasingly ill and anemic so we took him to the University of Tennessee Large Animal Hospital. Despite a blood transfusion and the excellent care provided by the vets there, the buckling died. It was at that time that the vet who treated him recommended that I discontinue use of fenbendazole with my goats and use the pyrantel pamoate instead. My small animal vet, who also raises goats herself, recommended using the moxidectin and pyrantel pamoate together, as described above.
Services
If you need assistance with hoof trimming, tattooing, or other basic care, please feel free to contact us. Fuel and supplies are not cheap so these services cannot be provided for free, but our fees are reasonable.
